Selecting the Aquarium

The type and size of the aquarium depends on the space available, the cost, and the needs of the fish. Keep in mind that larger tanks are easier to take care of than small tanks. The reason that large tanks are less trouble because there is more water volume for waste dispersal, more surface area for waste breakdown, and a more stable environment. For instance, the temperature of a 10 gallon tank can be affected more rapidly by sunlight or a cold night than a 55 gallon tank. A 55 gallon tank tends to have a much more stable pH than a 10 gallon tank. Therefore, beginning aquarists should choose as large a tank that they can accommodate, economically and space-wise.

The first requirement for the location of a fish tank is in an area that can support its weight. Water is very heavy, about 8 lbs per gallon (about 1 k/l). For example, a 20 gallon tank weighs more than 160 pounds not including gravel or rocks. Once a place that can support such a weight is found, check that the location fills other requirements. The tank should be away from direct sunlight, which will encourage algal growth and can affect the water temperature. Avoid placing the tank near a window or door where drafts may cool the tank. Similarly, the tank should be clear of any heating units (stove, furnace) that will overheat the tank. The tank should be near electrical outlets and in a location where water changes can be easily made.

Aquarium Furnishings

Gravel: Gravel in the aquarium serves both an aesthetic and a practical purpose. It provides support for plants, a means of filtration with under gravel filter systems, and a region for fish to carry out activities such as breeding and feeding.

If plants are kept in the tank, the gravel should be 2-5 mm in diameter. Many aquarists, who raise plants, layer the gravel. On the bottom is placed 5-10 mm size gravel, followed by base fertilizer (available at aquarium stores) like laterite, followed by a layer of 5-7 mm size, and finally a top layer of 2-4 mm size gravel. The result is a 3" (8 cm) gravel depth with a composition that in which plants can thrive.

The gravel can be added to the tank and arranged levelly or terraced. To terrace the gravel, use flat rocks, wood, or glass strips. Before adding the gravel to the tank, the gravel should be carefully washed to remove all small particles.

Rocks: The tank should be furnished with rock structures to provide hiding and breeding places for fish. The rocks used should not dissolve or crumble in water, nor release calcium.

Wood: Wood provides a refuge, a spawning site, and nourishment for some catfish. Wood can further add to the acidity of the water, benefiting fish that prefer acidic water. Only use bog wood for the aquarium, as most other wood will rot in aquaria. Do not use wood in tank with fish that require hard, alkaline water, as the wood will affect the alkalinity.

Plants

Live aquarium plants are a worthwhile addition to the fish tank. In a well planted tank, the fish have better colors, live a more natural life, and appear more comfortable than in an unplanted tank. Though they need more care than plastic replicas, live plants can be kept with few problems as long as there is plenty of light and no plant-eating or plant-destroying fish.

One of the most important ingredients to a successful plant aquarium is strong lighting. As a general rule, 2-3 watts per gallon is sufficient for a well-planted aquarium.

Be aware that the intensity of fluorescent tubes decreases subtly, with time. Thus one tube should be replaced every six months.

Most aquarium plants can be kept in water with a hardness from 4-12 dH, and a pH from 6.5-7.2. For specific species, see the individual descriptions. The water should be kept as clean and clear as possible because free debris can settle on plant leaves or cloud the water, interfering with light intensity. Very few aquatic plant species can survive in brackish water.

Accessories

Lighting: The type of lighting is not especially important if plants are not grown. Almost any incandescent or fluorescent light does fine. To minimize algal growth, only light the tank for 10-12 hours a day.

Plants require light in order to carry out photosynthesis and grow. Plants require more light, for a longer period of time (12-14 hours) than a tank housing only fish. The light hood should have a reflector, and the light equipment should be CSA or UL approved. There are several types of bulbs that can be used, although fluorescent and mercury vapor lamps are the most practical.

(1) Fluorescent tubes - Fluorescent tubes are the most popular type of bulb among aquarists with plants. Fluorescent tubes consume little power, produce little heat, and provide an even distribution of light. Fluorescent tubes are available in a wide range of types including full-spectrum bulbs. Light output can be increased by using a reflector or foil on the ceiling of the hood to reflect more light to the tank.

(2) Mercury vapour lamps - Mercury vapor lamps are not that common, although they work well for tanks with a depth greater than 20" (50 cm). These lights require special fixtures. In tanks deeper than 20" (50 cm) use about 6.25 watts per inch.

To control the amount of lighting each day, a timer can be purchased. Set the timer so that the light is on for 10-14 hours. Another beneficial device is a dimmer switch which can be used to vary the levels of light.

Heater: The most popular means to heat the aquarium is a glass immersion heater. There are two types of glass immersion heaters, non-submersible and submersible. The submersible heaters are a better investment, because they are usually more reliable and need not be unplugged whenever the water drops more than 6" (15 cm) from the top. With both types, the heater must be unplugged for 10 minutes before it leaves the water. If the heater is immersed it is subject to breakage. These types of heaters are generally fairly inexpensive. Be sure to use the right size heater for the tank. The general rule is 2 to 3 watts per gallon of water. See the Pet Traders newsletter Glub and Tail from June 2003 on selecting the right heater size for your aquarium for additional information.

Most heaters include a thermostat, so that once the temperature is set, the temperature does not vary much. In order to set the temperature with one of these units, place the heater into the water and let it sit for a minimum of 30 minutes. Then plug in the heater and let it run until the tank reaches a constant temperature and the pilot light (indicates the heater is running) turns off. Then read the temperature on the thermometer and adjust the heater accordingly.

When working in the tank, always unplug the heater for safety reasons. Some fish species may rest or hide on the heater. These fish often receive burns. To prevent this problem, protect the fish by purchasing a heater shield/protector from Pet Traders or your local pet store.

Thermometer: Always use a reliable thermometer to monitor the aquarium's temperature. Several types are available including stick-on liquid crystal types, floating glass types, and electronic (digital) types. The liquid crystal type is convenient in that it is easily read when affixed to the side of the tank, but is not entirely accurate because it can be influenced by temperatures outside of the tank. Glass type thermometers can either float or sink, depending on the type. Again, these are not that accurate but will serve the need of most aquarists. The most accurate, easiest to use, but most expensive of the three types is the electronic (digital) thermometer. This type of thermometer gives you a reading every few seconds, and is usually accurate to ± 0.1°F.

Air Pump: The air pump is an important part of the aquarium, especially if there is no power filter to create surface disturbance for oxygenation. The air pump can be used to power air stones which drive under gravel filters, internal box filters, and sponge filters. A separate air stone can be used for further aeration. The major drawback to air pumps is the noise they produce, especially when they are vibrating against something. Less expensive models are often noisier than higher quality, more expensive models.

Filtration: The filter is one of the most important pieces of equipment in the aquarium. The filter is the device that must be capable of handling fish waste and particles in the aquarium. The filter should have three means of filtration: mechanical, chemical, and biological.

Mechanical filtration refers to the filtering of water through a strainer or filter media, such as filter wool or foam, to remove particles from the water. After four weeks, the mechanical filter media begins to serve as biological filtration as bacteria cultures colonize the media. Activated carbon serves as a means of mechanical filtration by absorbing small particles including toxins, medications, and some fish wastes.

Chemical filtration refers to the process of removing particles or altering water conditions by chemical means. One popular material for chemical filtration is ammonia absorber (zeolite) which binds to free ammonia.
 
Biological filtration is the most important function of the filter. Nitrifying bacteria break down organic wastes from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. Without biological filtration, ammonia is present from the fish excrement, excess food, and plant matter. This is why newly established tanks must "cycle" (build up a culture of nitrifying bacteria) before expensive fish are introduced. Bacteria need plenty of oxygen to do their work, and most quality filters provide an adequate supply. The larger the surface area of the media, the more area available for bacteria to interact with organic compounds. Thus most media for biological filtration are porous or in irregular shapes to provide more surface area. Biological filter media should be rinsed only every month or two with cool to luke warm water, so as not to kill off too much of the beneficial bacteria. If there are two biological filter containers, clean only one at a time, so less there is disruption of biological filtration.

The filter should be large enough to handle the amounts of wastes produced by the fish and plants in the tank. Many filters are rated in terms of "gallons (liters) per hour." Use a filter that is rated to pump five to six times the tank's capacity an hour. For example, a 20 gallon tank should be equipped with a filter that pumps at least 100-120 gallons an hour.

Types of Filters: There are numerous types of filters available today.

Under gravel filter: Under gravel filters are simple to operate. They consist of plates that are covered with gravel and one or more up-right tubes. The filter is powered by an air pump via an air stone in the up-right tube. As the air bubbles move up the tube, water is also drawn up the tube. This action creates a vacuum-like movement that causes tank water to pass through the gravel bed, under the plate, and up the tube. As the water moves into the gravel bed, wastes are trapped in the gravel and broken down by nitrifying bacteria. Under gravel filters often incorporate chemical filtration through the use of a detachable cartridge near or at the top of the up-right tube.

Power head: The power head operates with an under gravel filter system. It is a motorized pump that is placed at the top of the up-right tube. The power head pumps water from the up-right tube into the tank creating a suction that pulls water though the gravel bed and up the tube. Power heads are able to move water much faster than the conventional air-driven stone, and can create strong water currents.

Sponge filter: A sponge filter is also powered by air. A sponge filter consists of a tube, a sponge, and a place for air-line connection. Air is pumped into the tube, creating a vacuum, and causing water to pass into the tube through the sponge. In the process, debris in the water is trapped in the sponge where the debris is broken down by bacteria. Sponge filters are only suitable for small tanks having a small fish load, because they do not have the capacity to handle much waste.

Internal corner box filter: An internal box filter is powered by an air pump. The air bubbles create a current that draws water and debris into the filter, which usually contains foam or cotton. This type of filter is only suitable for small tanks with small fish loads.

External power (back) filter: An external power or back filter is a popular filtration system. This filter consists of an intake tube; a hanging box, filter media, and a passage for water out-flow. This type of filter fits on the back of the fish tank, so some clearance between the tank and wall is required. The operation of the filter is simple: the motor creates a siphoning action which causes water to enter the filter. The water passes through the filter media (ranging from carbon to materials increasing surface area for bacteria growth) and out the water return. The returning, oxygenated water creates a moderate current. When the tank level is a few inches low, the returning water cascades, creating a "waterfall-like" sound. Back filters are generally cost efficient. The Aqua-Clear series of filters from the Hagen Company are a good example of this type of filter.

Canister filter: The canister filter is an increasingly popular filter. The canister filter consists of a canister, which can be placed in a cabinet below the tank, and intake and output hoses. Water is taken in by the filter (via the intake hose), filtered through media in the canister, and returned through the out-put hose to the tank. The returning water can enter as a stream, a rain-like dripping, a slow current, or a spray, depending on the end-piece.

Canister filters are excellent filtration systems as they have a great deal more surface area than back filters, and they are quiet and inconspicuous. Canister filters should be maintained on a regular basis, or as directed by the manufacturer's instructions. Usually canister filters do not need to be cleaned as regularly as other filtration systems, because canister filters rely most on biological filtration. Do not clean all the filter media at once because too much of the beneficial bacteria will be disturbed.

Bucket: A bucket is needed for water changes and adding water. A 2.5 to 3 gallon (about 10-12 L) bucket is sufficient. The bucket should be used only for the aquarium.

Siphon Hose: A siphon hose is needed for water changes. Siphon hoses are available in a range of sizes and designs: from inexpensive hoses to long hoses used for both emptying and filling.

Net: Every fish owner should have at least one (preferably more). The net should be fine mesh designed for aquarium use.

Setting up the Aquarium

The best policy is to choose the types of fish that are desired before choosing the tank. However, choosing the fish is not absolutely necessary beforehand.

1. Place the aquarium in a suitable location.

2. Rinse out the inside of the tank and check for leaks.

3. Add any background paper or foil to the outside of the back of the tank.

4. If an under gravel system is going to be used, add the plates.

5. Add any rocks or wood decorations, securing them in position.

6. If desired, add a base fertilizer for planted tanks. Follow the instructions on the package for proper allotment.

7. Rinse the gravel to remove dirt and other unwanted particles. For this, a bucket can be used and the gravel can be removed from the bucket with a strainer.

8. Add the gravel. If possible, use gravel from an already established tank so there is already a culture of nitrifying bacteria. The gravel also helps stabilize rock structures. If the gravel is to be "banked" or "terraced," add the appropriate structures to do so.

9. Install the filter. If possible, use some filter media from an established tank to speed up the "cycling" process.

10. Install the heater, but do not plug it in.

11. Install the thermometer.

12. Begin adding the water. Use cool to luke warm water (68-72°F, 20-22°C). Add water using a hose, and run the stream onto a rock or into a container so the gravel is not disturbed. Add water conditioner to the water.

13. When the tank is over half full plants can be added. The plants chosen should be hardy, fast-growing species such as Vallisneria, Hygrophila, Java Moss, and Amazon Swords. Plant tall plants along the rear of the tank, and shorter low-growing plants in the front for better plant and fish viewing.

14. Install the lighting/canopy.

15. When the tank is full, the heater can be plugged in (assuming that it has been immersed for at least 30 minutes).

16. After an hour or more, when the pilot light of the heater turns off, check the temperature. If the temperature is not correct, then adjust the heater accordingly.

17. Once the temperature has leveled off, a small number of hardy fish can be added. Suitable fish include robust tetras, barbs, and Zebra Danios. Allow the bag of fish to "float" in the aquarium for 10-15 minutes before opening the bag to let some tank water enter. Wait a few minutes and let more tank water enter the bag. Net the fish and transfer them from the bag into the tank. Do not allow any of the bag water to enter the tank.

Now the initial set-up has been completed and it is time for the tank to "cycle".

The fish should be fed lightly everyday or every other day. Be sure to monitor the water conditions two or three times a week for the initial cycling. The fastest way to "cycle" a tank is to use some gravel or biological filter media from an established tank. Another way to reduce "cycling" time is to use a nitrifying bacteria culture (Cycle from the Hagen Company) available at Pet Traders or your local pet store. Without adding any nitrifying bacteria, the cycling process can take anywhere from three to six weeks.

Proceed with the first water change (30% to 50%) after a week, and a subsequent 15%-30% change every three days for the next two to three weeks.

Less hardy fish can be added after the tank has cycled; when ammonia and nitrite levels are nearly immeasurable. Always add fish gradually, do not add 10 new fish in one to a 10 gallon tank. Instead add the 10 fish over a period of several weeks. The number of fish that you can have in your aquarium varies with many factors. The general rule of thumb, for a cycled well established aquarium, is an inch of fish per gallon.

If possible, add new fish at night, when the lights are off, or when the resident fish are being fed. In both cases, the resident fish are preoccupied with something, so they are less likely to harass the new fish. In tanks with aggressive species the best plan of attack is to rearrange the tank and introduce the new fish when the lights are off. In the morning, the resident fish will have to establish new territories along with the new comer.

Aquarium Maintenance

Cleaning the Aquarium: Every aquarium should be cleaned on a regular basis. In tanks with heavy fish loads, sensitive species, or over-feeding, water changes have to be preformed often; every week or two, depending on the condition. In aquariums with small fish loads, water changes need only be preformed every three to six weeks. If an aquarium is neglected for a long period of time, its inhabitants suffer.

Here are suggestions for cleaning an aquarium: 

1. Turn off all electrical accessories to lessen the risk of electrical shock.

2. Algae may build up on the tank glass and on rocks if no algae eating fish is kept. The algae can be removed from the glass using an algae scrubber. There are several such products available including magnets so you do not even have to get your hands wet. Unsightly algae can removed from rocks using a toothbrush or other scrubbing object. Remember that algal growth comforts many species, so do not remove any tolerable algae. If algae eaters are kept, leave some algae where it is not noticeable.
 
3. Occasionally salt and mineral deposits develop on the hood or edges of the tank. These can be removed by scrubbing. Vinegar can be used to remove stubborn deposits, but be sure to rinse all the vinegar off the object before returning it to the tank.

4. Remove any dead or dying leaves from plants, and trim any excess growth.

5. Clean the gravel using a siphon with a funnel-like gravel attachment or a strainer attachment. In order to start the siphon, submerge the hose in the tank and place your finger over one end. Keeping your finger on the end, place the end of the hose in a bucket or sink (below the tank level). Release your finger and water should begin to flow rapidly into the bucket or sink. Take care not to suck up any fish while working the gravel. Depending on the condition of the tank, remove 15-40% of the water. If the tank has not been changed for a long time, a massive water change is not the best course of action. Instead make a series of smaller water changes over the course of the week so that the tank inhabitants are not shocked by the change in water chemistry. However, if time is not available for several water changes, try to match the new water with the previous pH and hardness.

6. The filter should be cleaned at each cleaning. Follow the manufacturer's instruction when cleaning the filter. If the filter has two or more media compartments, only clean one per cleaning so that the nitrifying bacteria population will not be diminished. When cleaning the biological part of the filter, use cool water, not hot water. Do not use disinfectants or detergents in the filter, because this will have adverse affects on the nitrifying bacteria.

7. Refill the tank using water treated with conditioner and having a similar temperature and chemistry as the tank. In order to not disturb the tank inhabitants, pour the water in slowly.

8. Smooth out the gravel if it was disturbed during the cleaning.

9. Restart the filter.

10. Turn on the power.

11. Replace the cover on the tank.

12. Clean the outside of the glass with glass cleaner, being careful to avoid allowing any cleaner into the tank.

Close this window